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VACCINATIONS
Dr. Jean Dodds DVM's Vaccination Protocol
Total of 3 doses ONLY
Age of Pups - Vaccine - Type
9 weeks MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy)
12 weeks MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy)
16-20 weeks MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy)
24 weeks or older, if allowable by law Killed Rabies Vaccine
1 year MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only booster
1 year ( give 3-4 weeks apart from Dist/Parvo booster) Killed 3 year rabies vaccine
MLV=modified-live virus
Housebreaking
Dog or puppy is either housebroken or not. If your dog is sneaking off to another room and having an accident, you will have to take some of his freedom away until you can solve the problem. The longer you allow this type of behavior to exist, the harder it will be to modify. Unless you can catch him, it really does not do any good to drag him off to the site of his mishap and try and punish him. Keep him in sight if he is bold enough to try something in front of you, say "No," get his attention and take him outdoors quickly so he can finish eliminating in the appropriate area. Remember, it is your house. He has to earn his freedom through good behavior and this is your responsibility.
Start by establishing an elimination spot outdoors. In the morning, clip his leash to his collar and take the dog outdoors to his spot for elimination. State commands like "go potty" or "hurry up." After he does his duty, bring the dog inside for food and water. About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal, take the dog outside again for elimination. Take your dog to his "spot" at each elimination time. Maintain a regular feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule. One of the most commonly made errors in housebreaking is rushing too quickly ahead of your dog. Too much freedom too quickly can cause some confusion. If your dog experiences an accident or two, you will have to back up and slow down. Marking should not be confused with housebreaking problems because marking is deliberate. This behavior will arise in dogs who may be trying to vie for the role of the leader in the household; marking is a way of claiming territory. It is advised that if you should notice this behavior indoors or out, you strengthen all obedience commands immediately. This will remove all doubts as to who is in charge around the house. Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Placing food or water in his crate will allow him to fill up his bladder and bowel and he will have no choice but to relieve himself in his crate. Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time. If you have tried all the above and are still experiencing what you believe to be "Territorial Marking," consult your veterinarian. Your dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it's always best to be safe, not sorry. If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered you may want to talk to your veterinarian about this procedure. It usually has a very positive effect on this type of behavior problem. Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents. Clean the accident area with a pet odor neutralizer so your dog won't be tempted to repeat his mistake. A tip to help prevent accidents:
Do not make sudden changes in his diet.
Crate training Is not putting your dog/puppy in a cage or jail, and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den. Dog crates make excellent dens. It is a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him. Watch your own dog around home. Where do you find him napping in his deepest sleep? Under the table, desk, chair? Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a roof overhead and a little privacy. A crate offers security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all. There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training and they are as follows: Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you get a huge crate for a small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other and you will have defeated the whole purpose of using the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where they sleep or eat). If you have a puppy who will grow into a 60-70 lb. dog, you may have to buy two different crate sizes or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows. Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate, for example, "KENNEL"; throw in a treat or piece of kibble; when the dog/puppy enters, praise him and close the crate door. Increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him back out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long. As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for as many months as he is old plus one month (2 mth old pup + 1 mth = 3 hours in his crate).
Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your backyard to eliminate on a leash so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard. And don't forget to play with him and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness. Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature and he will be looking to you for direction. Your job as a responsible pet owner is to give him that direction so you can enjoy each other as true companions should. Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.
Puppy Biting And Nipping
For young puppies, nipping, biting and "mouthing" are normal behaviors and rarely cause serious harm, but it's important to stop these behaviors before your dog reaches adulthood, when a bite could inflict serious injury.
Instructions:
Step One
Begin your training early!
Step Two
Teach your puppy that biting hurts you. When he bites, give a sharp "no!" or "ouch!" like it really hurts - or even a yelp like a dog would make. This is the same reaction that your puppy would get from another puppy if he bit too hard during play. It teaches him that he's been too rough, and the odds are that he'll be more gentle next time.
Step Three
Remove your hand slowly - don't jerk it away - and give your puppy a toy that he can chew on without damage.
Step Four
If your puppy ignores your reaction and bites again, repeat your "no!," "ouch!" or yelp, and leave the room for a few minutes. Let your puppy know that when he bites, he will lose his playmate. This, mirrors the reaction he would get from another puppy if he played too roughly.
Step Five
Be persistent in your training. As your puppy's behavior improves and his bites are softer, continue to yelp or give a sharp "no!" or "ouch!" whenever he puts his teeth on you. Make it clear that all bites are painful and unacceptable to humans.
Step Six
Reinforce your puppy's good behavior. Whenever he licks you without using his teeth and whenever he plays nicely and appropriately, give him plenty of praise.
Step Seven
Begin teaching the "off" command after your puppy has stopped biting with any pressure. Hold a handful of the puppy's dry food, close your hand and say "off." After a few seconds, if the puppy has not touched your hand, say "take it" and give him a piece of food. You are teaching him that "off" means not to touch.
Step Eight
Continue to give a sharp yelp, "no!" or "ouch!" any time your puppy bites you unexpectedly. If you see the bite coming, give the "off" command.
Step Nine
Enroll your puppy in an obedience class where he can socialize with other dogs when he is about 6 months old. Their interaction will help to reinforce what you teach him, since rough play with other dogs will likely cause them to yelp and cut off play. At the same time, your puppy will learn the difference between people's limits and other dogs' limits - dogs will allow rougher play than people will.
Tips & Warnings
Make sure your puppy always has plenty of chew toys to exercise his mouthing and chewing instincts.
Make sure your puppy is getting plenty of exercise and play time every day. Going for walks, playing fetch and learning tricks are great distractions that may reduce biting.
Try to create a consistent schedule for play time - perhaps 15 to 30 minutes, twice a day. Your puppy will learn to look forward to that time and will be less likely to seek attention at other times.
Remind all family members, including children, to be consistent about the "no biting" rule.
If your training doesn't seem to be working or if your puppy becomes aggressive instead of backing off when you indicate that he's hurt you, see a veterinarian or professional trainer for help.
Rough games like tug-of-war and wrestling may encourage aggressive behavior, including biting.
If you have young children, don't leave your puppy alone with them until he has learned not to bite.
FEEDING
NEVER FEED YOUR PUPPY OR ADULT LARGE BREED DOG FOOD. ( ADULT OR PUPPY Large Breed!!!)
Feeding the first few days
For the first few days, it is a good idea to continue feeding the same type and brand of food and use the same feeding schedule the puppy was on before he came to you. Then you can slowly start using the food you have chosen based on information you received from the breeder . By "slowly" we mean over about 7-10 days go from 100% previous food to 100% new food. Mix 25% of the new with 75% of the old for several days. Then make it 50-50 for several days, then 75% new to 25% old.
Type of food
Orijen
Taste Of The Wild
Nature's Variety (Instinct ..chicken)
Life For K9
Flint River
Raw : Nature's Variety, Bravo and Oma's Pride .
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND NUVET VITAMINS
TO ORDER CALL 800-474-7044
(USE CODE: 37096) - FOR DISCOUNT PRICING
Feeding schedule
The puppy's feeding schedule will be somewhat dictated by your own personal schedule. We don't want to leave food out for the puppy so that it can eat it whenever it wants. You need to be there for the feedings because you want the puppy and its entire body on a set schedule. This is best accomplished by feeding the pup what it will eat at specific times on a specific schedule. Puppies under six months of age should be fed three times daily; between six and twelve months old, two times daily; and once per day after twelve months of age. Puppies maturing into adults will naturally decrease the number of feedings per day on their own.
By feeding on a set schedule, the dog will then go to the bathroom on a more set schedule and make housetraining easier and faster.
Make it a habit to give the puppy some quiet time after the meal. Don't let the children romp and play with it for the first hour to an hour and a half after eating. This can lead to some stomach upsets that can sometimes be very serious. The puppy will probably need to go to the bathroom, however.
Amount to feed
The amount of food given with each meal should never be dictated by what is on the back of the dog food bag. From our experience, these people obviously want to sell a lot of food. With our own pups, we place an ample amount of food down for them and then after 10 to 15 minutes it is picked up. You'll soon learn to judge how much they need and, depending on how fast they clean it up, when they need more. Remember to have water available with or immediately following the meal. One of the biggest complaints that veterinarians hear from dog owners, especially those with animals less than 18 months of age, is that they never eat enough. The owners feel the dog isn't putting on weight or growing as fast as they think it should. They are tempted to somehow encourage their animals to eat more. Don't do it. The growth rates and appetites of young animals on a good quality food are primarily dictated by their genetics. Don't try to make your dog grow faster than it should or into something it isn't. This will only cause problems. Artificially accelerated growth leads to bone and joint disorders. Feed them the amounts they want and let their bodies dictate their needs.
Table scraps are a No-No.
Young puppies should not be given table scraps because their digestive tracts are not fully developed and table scraps could cause diarrhea or other gastrointestinal problems. Table scraps fill them up but do not provide the nutrients their rapidly growing bodies need. Feeding them from the table teaches them the bad habit of begging; this may make house training more difficult for you. Table scraps should never account for more than 10% of your mature dog's diet. No chocolate, no bones that splinter easily, and keep your dog away from high-fat, greasy foods. Cow's milk can cause problems By the way, when it comes to pets, we consider milk just another table scrap. Cow's milk has the sugar lactose. Dogs do not have the enzyme lactase that is necessary to digest it. That is why they often develop diarrhea or softer stools when given it. Most humans produce this digestive enzyme. Those that don't are said to suffer from milk intolerances or allergies. When you see milk or milk by-products listed as ingredients in pet foods, lactose bacteria have been used to break down the sugar into easier digestible forms. Dogs do not need fresh milk!
Treats
Treats should never account for more than 10% of your puppy's caloric intake (which isn't much in Toy breeds). Your puppy's food is its sole source for the nutrition it needs so don't "fill up" your puppy on treats before meal time. Liver products are great treats because they provide nutrients your puppy is unlikely to obtain from any other food source.
Hard chew treats keep your puppy entertained and improve dental health by exercising the gums and scraping the teeth. It also satisfies your teething pup's need to chew. Treats can be used during training to reward good behavior, but be careful not to overdo it.
Rawhide bones
A few years ago, one of the major medical schools in this country conducted a laboratory test to answer this question. The results showed that in groups of test dogs, even in those fed an almost exclusive diet of rawhide, there were no ill effects. On the other hand, the chewing of rawhide had the beneficial effect of removing plaque from the animals' teeth and keeping them cleaner. This is significant because periodontal disease is a real problem in many adult dogs. Therefore, It will not only satisfy your pet's natural urge to chew, it will also help keep him healthy.
Water
Puppies may seem to drink large quantities of water. They need it and it cannot be deprived of it. A dog or cat can starve and lose almost all of its body fat and half of its protein mass (muscle) and still survive. However, if this same patient loses 15% of its body water, it will die. Water is the most important nutrient of all.
For dogs of any age that eat dry food, water will be needed to rehydrate it in their stomachs for digestion. Puppies also need more water per pound than adults do because they are growing. Growth comes through very active metabolism at the cellular level. These processes produce many wastes and by-products that are excreted into the blood. It requires plenty of water to carry these substances to and be flushed through the kidneys. It is okay to schedule when your puppy drinks, but on a daily basis you must allow them to consume what they want and need.
Providing fresh water is important. Infectious agents and diseases such as leptospirosis,Giardia, E. coli, and Cryptosporidium can be transmitted through contaminated water sources. Providing fresh water greatly reduces the risk of disease and therefore keeps your pet happy and healthy.
Click on the Airedale for Clipping and Trimming.
Also, more on ear gluing and setting.
GLUING AND SETTING & AIREDALE TERRIER EARS
1. Remove hair from the ears, leaving some around the edges(both sides). Clip top and sides of head, leaving the eyebrows and combing them forward. Some people prefer to pluck hair from the very start, but I clip the head and ears with a #10 blade. I feel there is less trauma to the skin and less chance of a reaction to the glue. Besides, it also gives the glue something to hold together.
2. Clean the ears with a quality ear cleaner. Pour into ear and massage gently, but well. Let the puppy shake its head. Repeat with other ear. Use cotton balls or cosmetic squares to clean the surface. Repeat if necessary. Let the ear dry completely. At least ten minutes. I use the time to brush the puppy, handle it's feet, check it's teeth, etc.
3. Apply Tincture of Benzoin to top and sides of head and inside the entire ear flap. It is a topical protectant and is frequently used by athletes to protect wounds or protect skin from minor irritations. Once dry it will help protect the skin and at the same time help the glue to dry and bond faster.
4. Apply glue to approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the top of the head and to the inside of the ear as shown. Make sure there is no glue at the bottom of the ear, nor the side of the head next to the bottom of the ear. Be careful to NOT get glue in the ear canal. This bottom area of the ear is left open for AIR CIRCULATION.
5. Keep the ear folded back on head until the glue dries to a tacky consistency (will become slightly transparent).
6. Cup your hand around the ear, positioning your thumb at the base of the ear. Rotate your hand slightly outward, bending the wrist backward. This will bring the ear toward you in what should be it's natural position.
7. With your other hand press the tip to a point about a thumb's width above the eye ( i.e. at the edge of the socket where you can feel the bone). If the puppy has a small ear with a high set, position the ear tip closer to the OUTSIDE edge of the eye socket and toward the cheek and OMIT STEP 10.
8. Pinch the fold in place and press the rest of the ear to the head, making certain to leave a pocket at the bottom base of the ear for AIR CIRCULATION. You should be able to slide your finger all the way up and into the ear canal.
9. Repeat the process with the other ear, matching the points of the folds. This is also a good time to take your comb or stripping knife and "comb" any excess glue from the muzzle or eyebrows. I usually do some body or leg grooming on the puppy while the glue sets. It gives them something else to think about. This is also a good time to trim nails, if you can do it without disturbing the ears.
10. I always add a small amount of glue at the back of the fold so I can lay the ear totally against the head. This seems to help strengthen the ear muscles. At the very least, it helps the ears stay glued a little longer.
11. If you wish, you can add some tape (hospital silk tape, Vetwrap, or even masking tape) over the ears and around the head to help hold in place while the glue finishes setting. You can remove it in a few hours, but the puppy will probably remove it himself. Usually once he has it off, he forgets about the rest. If the tape adheres to the head and ears, you may have to carefully remove the excess with scissors and leave little patches of tape stuck to him.
12. Give him a BRAND NEW chew bone to occupy his mind. Fill a Kong with peanut butter and a dog biscuit. Or an ice cube to chase across the floor. Or a Buster Cube with Cheerios in it. Lots of new stuffed toys. PLAY with him and tire him out.
ANYTHING to take his mind off of his ears. You do not want him rubbing and rearranging, especially before the glue has had a chance to dry completely.
13. Ears should remain glued for at least 2 to 3 weeks. If they begin to come loose in places, add a little glue, let it get tacky and press again. If too much comes loose, it is better to take the ears down completely. Yes, you do have to pull on them a little. I prefer using a stripping knife and pulling a little at a time. Clean off the glue with either the knife or Medi-sol. Medi-sol is a citrus based solvent and will leave a residue that should be shampooed. Clean the inside of the ears well. Let the ears rest a few days and re-glue again until you are satisfied with the results.
Puppy at 4 months.
Her ears only needed to be glued twice.
Note that 4 month old puppies occasionally have wrinkled skin on their heads. This is mostly due to age and partly due to having had their ears glued. It will usually smooth as they grow. So don't panic.
14. Sometimes it will only take one or two settings. Sometimes it will take several. Occasionally, the dog's ears will look perfect for a month and then, almost overnight, one or both may drop or begin to fold back like a greyhound. This is usually due to the fact that the puppy is still cutting molars and the pain and discomfort radiates from the jaw to the ear. I have found that ears can be adjusted even after 10 months DEPENDING on the size and the problem.
Ear Glue removal
In most cases, the ears gradually loosen up over time. Most
puppies will rub their head against anything and everything, and eventually
the glue comes undone....hopefully in not less than two weeks. When one comes
completely undone, then it is important to take the other one down. This is done
with a stripping knife. If it becomes necessary for YOU to do it, you
can use any dull knife for grasping along with your thumb and first finger.
It's kind of like removing a band-aid. Using quick, sharp movements, you
grasp sections/pieces of glue and very, very quickly pull them off. It is
extremely important to remove the glue if a ear comes undone, because the
weight of the glue at the tips of the ear could weigh down the newly set ear.
Hope this helps!
Thanks to Barbara Schneider for sharing her ear gluing tips.
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